How To Grow Rhubarb Plants

Rhubarb, with its vibrant crimson stalks and large, dramatic leaves, is a stalwart of the classic kitchen garden. Technically a vegetable but most often treated as a fruit, this hardy perennial offers a tart, tangy flavor that signals the true arrival of spring.

Growing rhubarb is a surprisingly simple and deeply rewarding endeavor. A healthy plant will remain productive for a decade or more, providing an annual bounty for pies, jams, crumbles, and sauces with minimal fuss.

Choosing Seed vs. Crowns

Before you can plant, you must decide how you'll start your rhubarb patch. While it is possible to grow rhubarb from seed, it is not the recommended method for most home gardeners.

Growing from Seed: This is the most economical option, but it requires significant patience. Seed-grown plants take much longer to reach a harvestable size, and the quality, color, and flavor of the resulting plants can be variable. If you choose this route, sow seeds indoors in late winter, about 8-10 weeks before the last frost, and transplant the seedlings when they are about four inches tall.
Planting Crowns: The vast majority of gardeners opt to plant rhubarb crowns, which are divisions from established, vigorous parent plants. These crowns are typically at least one year old and will establish themselves much more quickly. While more expensive than seeds, they guarantee the characteristics of the parent variety and can often yield a small harvest in their second year. You can purchase crowns as dormant, bare-root plants in late autumn or early spring, or as potted plants throughout the year.

For beginners and those seeking a faster, more reliable path to harvest, planting crowns is the superior choice.

Best Rhubarb Varieties

The world of rhubarb extends beyond the generic red-stalked varieties. Cultivars offer a range of colors, from deep ruby red to blush green, as well as variations in sweetness, tartness, and vigor.

Variety Name	Stalk Color	Flavor Profile & Characteristics	Hardiness Zones
'Victoria'	Green with a pink/red base	A very common, reliable, and vigorous green-stalked variety first introduced in 1837. Produces thick stems and is a good choice for forcing.	3-8
'Canada Red'	Bright Red	A smaller variety known for its sweet flavor and vibrant red stalks.	3-8
'Valentine'	Deep Ruby Red	Bears long, deep-red stalks with a less tart flavor.	3-8
'Timperley Early'	Red	An excellent choice for an extra-early crop, even without forcing. It's known for being very sweet.	3-8
'Cherry Red'	Bright Red	Produces tender, sweet stalks that are long and thick, making it a great choice for those wary of rhubarb's tartness.	2-8
'MacDonald'	Red	Known for its strong, upright growth and tender, red stalks.	3-8
'Holstein's Bloodred'	Deep Red	A champion grower that can produce 5-10 pounds of juicy, deep-red stalks from a single large plant.	3-8

Planting Rhubarb

Proper planting is the foundation of a long and productive life for your rhubarb plant. Since it's a perennial that will occupy its spot for many years, careful site selection and preparation are crucial.

When to Plant

Rhubarb crowns are best planted when they are dormant. This means late autumn or early spring are the ideal times. In spring, plant as soon as the soil is workable, before new growth begins. If you purchase a potted plant, it can be planted any time of year, though it's best to avoid the extreme heat of summer.

Choosing the Perfect Location

Sunlight: Rhubarb performs best in a location that receives full sun but will also tolerate partial shade. In hotter climates, some afternoon shade can be beneficial to protect the plant from harsh sun.
Space: These are large plants! A mature rhubarb clump can easily reach 3 feet tall and wide, with some varieties growing even larger. Allow at least 3 to 4 feet of space between plants.
A Permanent Home: Choose a spot at the edge of your garden or along a fence where the plant can grow undisturbed for years.

Soil Preparation: The Key to Success

Rhubarb is a "heavy feeder," meaning it requires nutrient-rich soil to thrive. Excellent drainage is also non-negotiable, as rhubarb crowns will rot if they sit in waterlogged soil.

To prepare the perfect bed:

Clear the Area: Remove all perennial weeds from the planting site.
Dig Deep: Prepare the planting area by digging down at least two feet to loosen the soil, allowing the extensive root system to establish easily.
Enrich the Soil: Rhubarb thrives on organic matter. Incorporate two bucketfuls of well-rotted manure, garden compost, or other rich organic matter per square yard. This improves fertility and drainage.

How to Plant Rhubarb Crowns

Dig the Hole: Excavate a large hole, roughly the size of a bushel basket, that is wide and deep enough to accommodate the crown's root system without bending it.
Position the Crown: Place the crown in the hole so that the top of the crown, where the buds are visible, sits about 1 to 2 inches below the soil surface. Ensure the buds are facing upwards. In heavy, wet soils, it's wise to plant the crown slightly higher, with the top at ground level, to help prevent rot.
Backfill and Water: Fill the hole with the enriched soil, gently firming it around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Water the newly planted crown thoroughly to settle the soil.

Ongoing Care for Rhubarb Plants

Once established, rhubarb is remarkably low-maintenance. However, a few key tasks will ensure your plants remain vigorous and productive.

Watering: Newly planted rhubarb needs regular watering during dry spells throughout its first growing season to establish a strong root system. Once mature, rhubarb is quite drought-tolerant, thanks to its deep roots, and will only need watering during prolonged dry periods in the summer. Plants grown in containers, however, will need consistent watering as they dry out much faster.
Fertilizing and Mulching: As heavy feeders, rhubarb plants benefit greatly from an annual application of nutrients. Each spring, apply a 2-to-4-inch layer of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant, being careful not to bury the crown itself, which can lead to rot.
Removing Flower Stalks: In spring or summer, your plant may try to send up a thick, distinctive flower stalk. These should be removed at the base as soon as they appear. Allowing the plant to flower and set seed diverts energy away from producing the delicious stalks and developing strong roots.
Dividing Mature Plants: Every 4 to 6 years, an established rhubarb clump may become overcrowded and less productive. To rejuvenate the plant, it's best to dig it up and divide it during its dormant season (late fall or early spring). Use a sharp spade to lift the entire root ball and split it into sections, ensuring each division has at least one or two large buds. Replant the healthiest divisions or share them with fellow gardeners.
Companion Planting: See my detailed post for companion plants for rhubarb.

Advanced Technique: Forcing Rhubarb for an Early Treat

Forcing is a technique used to trick rhubarb into producing an earlier harvest of exceptionally sweet and tender stalks. In mid-winter (around January), cover a strong, established crown with a layer of straw, then place a large, light-proof container—like a traditional rhubarb forcer, a large bucket, or an overturned dustbin—over the top. The darkness and warmth encourage the plant to send up pale pink, sweet stems. These forced stalks are typically ready to harvest 4 to 8 weeks after covering. After harvesting, remove the cover and allow the plant to grow normally for the rest of the season. It's important not to force the same crown in consecutive years, as this can weaken the plant.

Harvesting Rhubarb

Patience in the first couple of years is the most critical part of harvesting.

For an in depth dive into this topic, see my detailed post on harvesting rhubarb.

The Golden Rule: Wait to Harvest

Year One: Do not harvest any stalks in the first year after planting. This allows the plant to pour all its energy into developing a robust root system.
Year Two: You can take a light harvest of just a few stalks.
Year Three and Beyond: The plant should be well-established and can be harvested normally.

When and How to Harvest

The main harvest season for rhubarb typically runs from spring through early summer, often from April to June. Stalks are ready to be picked when they are between 7 and 15 inches long and the leaf has fully opened. Color is not a reliable indicator of ripeness, as some varieties have green stalks even when mature.

The proper harvesting technique is crucial for the plant's health. Do not cut the stalks. Cutting leaves a stump that can rot and invite disease. Instead:

Grasp the stalk firmly near its base.
Gently twist and pull upwards in one smooth motion. The stalk should pop and detach cleanly from the base of the crown.

How Much to Take

To ensure the plant remains vigorous, never harvest more than one-third to one-half of the stalks from a single plant at any one time. Always leave plenty of leaves to continue photosynthesizing and storing energy for the following year's crop. It's best to stop or significantly reduce harvesting by late June or early July to allow the plant to build up its energy reserves for the winter.

CRITICAL WARNING: Rhubarb Leaves are Poisonous Only the stalks (petioles) of the rhubarb plant are edible. The large, leafy greens contain high concentrations of oxalic acid and are toxic to humans and animals. Immediately after harvesting, use a knife to trim the leaves from the stalks and discard them safely in your compost bin.
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Troubleshooting: Common Rhubarb Pests and Diseases

Rhubarb is a tough plant with few problems, but issues can occasionally arise.

Problem	Symptoms	Control & Solution
Crown Rot	The crown at the base of the plant becomes soft, brown, or black, and turns to mush. Leaves may turn yellow or red and the whole plant collapses.	This fungal disease is caused by waterlogged soil. There is no cure. Infected plants must be dug up and destroyed (do not compost). To prevent it, ensure excellent drainage by planting in well-drained soil or raised beds.
Leaf Spot	Circular or angular spots appear on the leaves, often with beige or white centers and a red or brown border. The center may fall out, leaving ragged holes.	This is a fungal issue. Remove and destroy affected leaves. Clean up all plant debris in the fall after the first frost to reduce overwintering fungi. Ensure good air circulation around plants.
Slugs & Snails	Ragged holes chewed in the leaves.	Slugs prefer young, tender leaves. While unsightly, damage is rarely severe enough to harm the plant. Keep the area around the plant free of weeds and debris where pests can hide.
Rhubarb Curculio	A large, "snouted" beetle that bores small holes in the stalks to feed and lay eggs.	These beetles are difficult to control with sprays. The most effective method is to hand-pick the pests off the plants. Remove any affected stalks.

By following these guidelines, you can cultivate a thriving rhubarb patch that will provide a delicious and reliable harvest for many springs to come. It is a true long-term investment in your garden and your kitchen.